Introduction: Making Your Own Photovoltaic 5V System

This uses a shoot up converter as a 5V Output signal to charge the battery(Li Po/Li-ion). And Hike convertor for 3.7V battery to 5V USB output for devices needed 5 V. Similar to the Original system that uses Lead Virulent Battery as an energy storage charge by either PWM or MPPT controller. And ply for 12V Devices. This Unrivaled only uses a Shoot down converter to convert 12V (solar dialog box nominative voltage) to stable 5V to file a Li-Po/Li-ion battery, after day. Switch to Boost convertor to convert the stamp battery's emf 4.2 (3.7 nominal voltage for Li-Po and Li-ion) to again 5V for devices powers 5V. (You can still use the 5V in the Buck Converter during daytime while the Li-Petty officer/Li-ion Battery is charging.  It might non be as efficacious as the original system(12V). I only did this because my solar array power is lone 15W and not sufficient budget to buy MPPT or PWM charger for 12V. and non enough to power applications that need higher than 50W. So I make an alternative option, the 5V translation.

(Admonisher, the system does non have any controllers.)

This scheme is for solar panels that are lower than 30W and only 12V only. (9V solar panels would still bring on).

My System specifications
Input Solar Panel =12V (18V)

Power used = 15 W

Charging clip = depends on your solar panel's power and the battery's capacity.

USB Output 1 (Buck converter) = 5V

USB Output 2 (Boost convertor)= 5V

Barrage character= depends on your choices(Li-Po/Lithium-ion) 3.7 and capacity - Mine was Fifty-one-Po with a capacity of 3500mAh.

One to point:

While the project is current for experiments for improving and hard its efficiency and whether IT was worth it. Ask Maine questions for the project.

Gradation 1: Ready the Materials

  • Purfboard (Medium Size)
  • Wires
  • Leads Alligator Crocodile Double-ended Test Roach Clip Pinafore Wire( Optional for testing)
  • 2x USB Ports
  • Lead solder.
  • Solar Impanel -(recommend 20Watts higher, 12V)
  • 1x TP4056 charging and protection circuit for the Li-Po and Lithium-ion.
  • 1x Li-Po/Li-ion bombardment ( depends what battery you choose and the capacitance)

Clam-Converter (One I use)

  • (1x) LM2576T (5V interpretation, 3A )
  • (1x) 100uH Inductance
  • (1x) 100uF and (1x) 1000uF Electrolytic capacitors
  • (1x) Schottky Diode
  • (1x 1K resistor and shrimpy LED) -optional

Along with measurement tools

  • Digital/Analog Multimeter ( Voltage and Current needed here to calculate its efficiency)

Step 2: Follow the Circuit Schematic

Solder all the components in a PCB purfboard.

It would make up better to short the Data plus and minus Pins on the USB ports for Android Phones.

Be sure to flip off the Boost converter to not overload the TP4056 while charging the barrage fire.

If your star panel's tycoo is get down than the suggested power, which is 20Watts above, you should only when connect one battery. because of the pocket-size major power in your star panel's power. Example: 15Watts is 0.83A, which means that's your max current.

Step 3: Ability and Measure the Circuit.

If the racing circuit is working properly, then test it away using blank shell loads like 5W resistance in the output and measure the voltage and prevailing. like this picture.

Encountering Problems

- photovoltaic system -

If the input voltage (photovoltaic) in the buck-convertor suddenly drops lower than the nominative voltage of PV and the end product electric potential. then the problem should get on this list.

*the load in the output is connected already and draws more power from the PV.

*Less sunlight outside owed to lowering, etc.

if your problem is not on this list, leave a comment and I will answer it.

Step out 4: Finished

We're done.

You can direct the efficiency of the Buck-convertor and the Boost converter by this formula.

Output Voltage x Output Current

------------------------------------------- x 100% = Efficiency

Stimulant Potential x Stimulus Contemporary

Things to Cue!! - Always switch off the connection between Battery and the Boost-Converter to not surcharge the TP4056 charging process during the daylight. only habit IT for Tonight.

- be certainly that in that location are batteries charging when measuring the current and voltage to grow its efficiency.

Advantages and Disadvantages

+ 5V operated. For charging and powering applications that necessitate 5V
- Not for applications that needs 12V/9V.(Can be adjusted if your boost converter is adjustable)

+ Efficiency plac is good. ( Mine are 70% in buck converter and 68% in Boost converter)(Little bit higher if you use an already build the module.)

- The efficiency Crataegus oxycantha drop if the stimulant of hitch converter potential dro overleap. Due to the outturn draw power.

+ Inexpensive system

- System without a Controller (to monitor lizard the battery and the solar charging condition and protections)

+ Easy to make if purchasing the already built boost and buck module.

One thing to point stunned:

The limited current output of the sawbuck-convertor is depended happening your solar panel's power (Watts). My solar battery's power is 15 Watts, which means I'm limited to the current of 0.75A when connecting to the charger. This is why I advocate a solar panel that at least higher than 20W.

Feel free to comment if you have questions some the project.

If you make your own Photovoltaic 5V System. delight share.

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Reminder: Always have cognition about electronics and think all but prophylactic forward before, during, and subsequently making the project. Safety First.

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